The Aran Islands, County Galway

Upturned currachs on the Aran Islands - photo credit Susan Byron

The Aran Islands, despite being the most popular and most visited islands off the coast of Galway are still very special, being pocket-sized versions of the mainland and the world-famous karst limestone region known as the Burren. Inis Oír and Inis Meain in particular, are good indicators of how life used to be in Ireland, not so very long ago, whether you were a fisherman, farmer or shepherd or all three thrown in together for good measure, dictated by necessity at the time. So, if you get a chance at all, you should definitely take a trip out to either Inis Mór (the big island) Inis Meain (the middle island) or Inis Oír (the eastern island). Inis Mór is where it’s all happening with the precarious, cliff side, stone fort of Dún Aengus which is a huge draw. Unfortunately, it is also where the world and his mother goes every July and August also,  so do yourself a HUGE favour and choose one of the smaller islands, preferably Inis Meain (my favourite) which are just as lovely, perhaps even more so when you consider that you will most likely have it to yourself ! Born of a long tradition of fishing and farming these once isolated island communities were self-sufficient and pretty much oblivious to life on the mainland, some say they still are! Legend has it that World War 2 pretty much passed them by altogether, even today they don’t pay too much attention to what is going on in Dublin, never mind the rest of the world! The Irish language is alive and well out there, as is traditional Irish music and crafts like knitting and basket making and you will not get closer to nature than on any of the Aran Islands. And yet, we have to credit modern-day technology like broadband for leading a revival and return to many of Ireland’s islands that suffered a such a huge exodus in the past.

There is a daily service a during the summer, to each of the three Aran Islands from either Rossaveal or Doolin Harbour which begins around about St Patrick’s Day, or Easter at the latest and runs until the end of October, if possible. Sailing times differ slightly depending on the weather and the tides of course, so always check directly just in case! Extracted for the Treasure Ireland series of Irish Travel Guides written by Susan Byron author of the independent travel website www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Green trails and massive variety characterize Ireland's walking vacations

Amazing lush green views on Ireland's walking trails

If you fancy a walking holiday in Ireland you won’t do better than choosing a rural Irish bed and breakfast.

Ireland is littered with way marked trails with walks of various abilities covering all of the 32 counties of Ireland, which can be a tad overwhelming for visitors. And not everybody wants to be up at the crack of dawn and gone till dusk, although there are plenty of those kind of treks if that is what you after?

Many people, especially weekenders who perhaps have tired of their own walking haunts, want to experience some new trails and new vistas without having to drive miles there and back.

What is fantastic about rural bed and breakfasts is that the owners know their particular corner of Ireland like the back of their own hand and are more than happy to point you in the right direction or take you on a guided walk themselves. Many of the walks that you will have access to on an Irish bed and breakfast walking holiday are made up of old access routes to fields linked perhaps to higher sheep or goat trails on the mountains or if you really strike gold, former pilgrim routes or hidden passes between valleys and the seashore.

Remember it is not all that long ago that some rural parts of Ireland particularly in Donegal, Mayo and West Cork had no proper roads just donkey and cart tracks which tended to follow the natural roundabout lie of the land rather than the later straight as dye direct roads. So you will get to see some pretty spectacular scenery from angles that you would never get in a car.

In County Clare you can follow the ‘green roads’ which were built to provide family relief work in the 19th century that follow horizontal lines around the limestone hills from Ballyvaughan to Doolin where you will have only the birds and the butterflies for company.

In West Cork you can follow the smugglers routes along the cliff tops to the beaches were they off loaded illicit cargoes of brandy and tobacco and anything else they could get their hands on.

In the midlands you can follow the tow paths of the Grand Canal up as far as Dublin, while on the islands your paths will be lined by miles of stone walls.

The variety is endless and ever changing with seasons so there are no excuses! Coupled with the promise of a packed lunch and the promise of a hearty home cooked meal at the end of the day what are you waiting for?

Grab your boots and your jacket and book yourself an Irish walking holiday at one of Irelands many specialist bed and breakfasts.

Lough Bawn House a hidden gem beautifully catered in mystical Westmeath

Lough Bawn House, County Westmeath

Lough Bawn is an idyllic Irish country house tucked away at the bottom of a long tree-lined drive in the heart of the magical midlands of Ireland. Overlooking a shimmering lake where you can swim or take out their own private boat, peacocks strut their stuff on the front lawn.

Host Verity Butterfield, a caterer by profession, inherited the property from her mother a couple of years ago and returned from England to breathe life into Lough Bawn again by opening its handsome Georgian doors to paying guests. With just four newly decorated rooms, Lough Bawn is an intensely personal affair and perfect for couples wanting to get away from it all or small groups of friends, where you will feel more like friends of the family than merely just names on a register.

Guests are greeted and treated to delights such as homemade elderflower cordial and lemon drizzle cake or silver service tea on arrival either outside on the lawn or cosied up by the drawing room fire.

You will be very well looked after in Lough Bawn, the rooms are big and spacious, very individual and tastefully decorated with beautiful views out over the gardens and the lake.

Breakfast is a feast with homemade granola, fresh fruits from the garden stewed in a spicy compote, as well as the full Irish breakfast if required complete with homemade breads fresh from the oven, or as a fellow guest exclaimed delightfully when I passed the bread basket 'oh, they are hot' as in straight from the oven. What a treat, ditto the homemade jams and marmalades you can also buy to take home with you. Candlelit dinners with wine are also available to guests and include local organic meat and fresh fish from the many lakes and rivers surrounding the property.

While it is certainly off the beaten track and the perfect place to relax (you could easily never leave the estate) there really is a lot to see and do in this area such as Tullynally Castle and Gardens nearby in Castlepollard, Newgrange, and Trim Castle as well as the more intimate and soulful places such as Fore Abbey and Loughcrew Cairns. In fact, the owner, Butterfield, is thinking of putting a special weekly, all inclusive package together that will include all meals (plus wine!) picnics and lunches out and daily chauffeur driven tours of the area, as well as a courtesy service to Dublin Airport which I think is a wonderful idea.

I cannot tell you how many emails I get from people who are overwhelmed by Ireland and who just want someone to take care of it all for them, ensuring that they stay in a really nice place, with excellent food and get to see Ireland's Hidden Gems as well as a bit of interaction with the locals, sounds like a good plan to me, will keep you posted....in the meantime check out their website www.LoughBawnHouse.com.

By Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

King John's Castle, Limerick City, revamped and ready for action

King John's Castle, Limerick City

King Johns Castle has just re-opened following a €5.7 million revamp which has turned it into a much more attractive, interesting and educational venue than it was, in the heart of Limerick City. 

You cannot fail to miss the huge stone curtain walls or stout round towers on the approach from Thomond Bridge, incidentally there is free parking for visitors just past the Bishop’s Palace on the left. Follow the signs then to the new entrance just left of the visitors center, a large glass building which now houses a bright, new café, gift shop and toilet facilities. Built in the 13th century by King Johns Castle has had a very long and turbulent history, as you can imagine, much of it filled with blood and gore, as you might expect....

What started as an island Viking settlement, you can still see the original ringed settlement walls underground, and the footprints of the wattle and daub medieval dwellings, as well as later additions and battlements which saw the castle develop into a major strategic stronghold between warring factions in the region. The new exhibition area tells the story of King John (brother of Richard the Lionheart) from those very first settlers to the Norman conquerors and the infamous siege of Limerick which led to the signing of the Treaty a year later in1642, through the medium of print and film with no less than three theaters. As well as interactive maps and ‘talking’ figures as well as lots of fun ideas for kids of all ages. A group of Italian students where busy with their smartphones taking photos of themselves dressing up while younger children were busy building stone arches, firing mock canons and opening discovery drawers to inspect medieval artifacts and treasures....

You could easily spend several couple of hours working your way through the new exhibition (a great rainy day alternative for visitors to the West of Ireland) but be sure to leave plenty of time to explore the actual castle itself which is pretty much as it would have looked in the 13th century, only cleaner and a lot safer then when it was built for King John, who never actually visited but that’s another story. Friendly, costumed guides continue the historical conversation with working displays of weaponry, carpentry, masonry and coinage. You can even walk through the ruins of the medieval banqueting hall, say a prayer in the newly constructed replica church or try on a helmet and brandish a sword in the campaign tent. But the best views are high up on the actual battlements themselves with a 360 panorama of the city and the River Shannon from where view a thousand years and more of history from St Mary’s Cathedral, to the Treaty Stone, to the new Thomond Park stadium which defends it’s (rugby) turf with as much blood and passion as it’s medieval ancestors defended the city at King John’s Castle all those years ago.

Open daily from 10am-5pm, Adults €9 Children €5.25 Families €20.60 concessions available for seniors and students.

For more information or to book tickets online visit King Johns Castle

For more Things To Do and See around Limerick please click here.

By Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Irish jewelry designer creates a contemporary Ring of Kerry

Ring of Kerry ring by Paul F Kelly

No doubt you have all heard of the Ring of Kerry the that famous scenic drive around the Iveragh Peninsula on the West coast of Ireland. 

1000‘s of people ‘do’ the Ring of Kerry every year taking in its wonderful sights like the golden strand at Rossbeigh looking out over the Dingle Peninsula, the prehistoric stone forts at Cahirciveen and the picturesque little fishing village which is the gateway to Valentia Island where dinosaur footprints are etching in the mud flats or you can catch a boat out to to the dramatic Skelligs Islands. 

On then perhaps to Waterville and Derrynane House in Caherdaniel, home once upon a time to Daniel O’Connell the liberator and then on via Sneem to Kenmare where you will find master goldsmith Paul Kelly working away in his shop on Henry Street.

An enterprising jeweller by day and organic mussel farmer by night Paul Kelly lives with his young family of redheads on the beautiful Beara Peninsula. Originally from Kilkenny, he was apprenticed to Rudolf Hletzel, he has come up with the novel idea of a contemporary Ring of Kerry. Inspired by an Irish mythological tale of love and war recalled by the druid Amergin in the 15th century, it tells of the Princess Sceine whose people where the Milesians who crossed the oceans following a star to be the first inhabitants of Ireland. Intertwining Torc style bands of silver and gold finish with a brilliant cut diamond and a green emerald combine to symbolize the green, white and gold of Ireland in what I imagine will become a new classic similar to the Claddagh ring of Galway. 

Available in sterling silver, 9 or 18 carat gold this new Ring of Kerry is a stunning piece of jewelry that would make a fabulous gift, engagement ring or special anniversary present for anybody with a love of or connection with Ireland.

Paul F Kelly Goldsmith

You can tell Paul lives and breathes Ireland, Kerry in particular, each piece is lovingly hand made in his workshop behind the counter although he is more than happy to take a break and chat with customers who pop in while on holidays to browse or perhaps choose a very special momento of their trip. 2013 being the year of The Gathering he has created a special version of his Ring of Kerry to mark the occasion, incorporating red (ruby) and blue (sapphire) stones so that both American, English or French nationalities can be included, very clever and beautiful. 

And in case you are wondering how these rings feel, in the interests of research I tried each one on and of course I liked the18 carat gold and white gold version best and was delighted how well it sat on my finger, being solid gold it is quite chunky but the design is so good it sits very comfortably, hint, hint darling...... American buyers have the advantage of being able to purchase these rings tax free which represents a 23 percent saving on the retail price of $499 for the silver Ring of Kerry. For further information, pricing and availability visit Paul F Kelly's own website http://pfk.ie

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Barron's Bakery, a family-run, Waterford staple baking the best bread in Ireland for over 125 years

Barron's Bakery, Cappoquin, Waterford

Apparently it is “impossible to go into a bakery and just come out with a loaf of bread” which is certainly the case with Barron's Bakery in Cappoquin, in County Waterford, a small, sleepy town on the river Blackwater, backed by the Knockmealdown mountains.

Serving Cappoquin and the wider community now for over 125 years, Barron’s Bakery is a much loved institution that has survived against all the odds. 

“The supermarkets ruined it for the small bakeries”, Esther Barron, tells me as we stand chatting in front of the oldest working Scotch Brick Ovens in Ireland, which are fired up daily to bake the hand molded loaves of bread on ‘a falling heat’ which is entirely regulated by experienced hands, to produce the finest bread in Ireland today.

There is simply no comparison between ‘factory made’ bread and Barron’s bread. Only the finest flour and yeast are used following an age old tried and trusted process that cannot be compared to cheap, additive laden, ingredients and mass produced products. In Italy and France small independent bakeries still dominate, with a 90 percent chunk of the bread market while in Ireland, it is sadly the other way around. But change is slowly on its way with a renewed interest in good quality food and an anti-recessionary spirit inspired to ‘shop local’ in an effort to support not only local businesses and jobs but to breathe life back into rural communities.

Barron's Bakery has been at the heart of Cappoquin since 1887 when John Barron started a small bakery there on the square, on completion of a five-year apprenticeship at Touraneena and a short stint in America in 1885. His son Joe took over the business in 1940, married to Joan the hardworking couple had five daughters, the youngest Esther is now at the helm with her husband Joe Prendergast. She is forever indebted to a beloved Aunt Hester whom she credits with the business acumen which led to its success, which definitely rubbed off on her niece.

But no one individual can take the credit, Esther is quick to point out how it was very much ‘a hands on’ family operation were every child and visiting cousin was expected to row in and lend a hand, whether it was counting eggs, loading the bread van or helping out with deliveries. A great employer many generations of Cappoquin people were and still are employed in the bakery alongside other non-nationals who filled a gap when emigration or lack of interest in hard graft, took its toll.

Barron's Bakery has certainly endured its fair share of ups and downs but with an extraordinary generosity of spirit led by its founder Joe, who Esther continues, received a tidy sum of conscience money (small bills owed) but never chased, after her father died in 1980. Reminiscing even further Esther remember the neighbors bringing in their turkeys to be roasted in the bread ovens on Christmas day, their own ovens being too small to fit turkeys at the time, God be with the days.

Sweltering in the (still) ambient heat of the cooling ovens a warm glow sweeps over you of similar small businesses from your own childhood that were the lifeblood of communities, sadly long gone, I wonder what is the secret? Family for sure, all pulling together when needed, with Mother keeping the kettle on or soup in the pot for hard working bakers, weary shop assistants and even delivery men. A tried and trusted process with no compromising on ingredients, knowing what the customer wants and responding to their requests, whether it's old fashioned (delicious) Chester cakes, scones, spotted dog (soda bread with fruit). But Esther insists and I will have to let her have the last word, that Barron's success is the directly result of the local people's loyal support. I wish I could have stayed there amongst them,  drinking tea or Cappoquino's and having the chat as they say.

Celebrating 125 years of home baking....

Barrons Bakery and Coffee Shop, the Square, Cappoquin is open Monday through Saturday. 

You can take a tour of the bakery and see those wonderful bread ovens with a combined ticket to Lismore Castle Gardens from the Heritage Centre in nearby Lismore. Or you can buy the book “Our Daily Bread" commissioned to celebrate the 125th anniversary of Barrons Bakery, which is beautifully written by Roz Crowley and photographed by Arna Run Runarsdottir, which is also available in the coffee shop.

Or do what one of the many lifelong customers who contributed to the book suggested when he comes on annual holiday from San Francisco every year, bring an empty suitcase and fill it up before you go home ! Esther and Joe also have a stall at the Dungarvan Farmers Marketevery thursday morning, so go and say Hello if you are in the area, I defy you to come away with just a loaf of bread!

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Step into a storybook garden with a fairytale castle at Lismore Castle and Gardens Arts Centre in County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens, Lismore, County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens are exactly how I imagined my storybook garden to be, complete with a fairytale castle and Prince Charming throwin for good measure. A place where I could wile away endless sunny afternoons in a floaty dress, playing Titania in "A Midsummer’s Night Dream". Or take afternoon tea in the shade of a gnarled old apple tree having painted yet another perfect botanical watercolor.

Neatly trimmed box hedges barely contain the flower filled borders with not a dead plant, bald spot or a weed to be seen anywhere. Thinking an invisible team of gardeners must work through the night to maintain such perfection, I smiled in lazy contentment at the line of wheelbarrows neatly parked outside the greenhouses and potting sheds.

Having long since given up the struggle to keep up with the famed gardens of Sissinghurst in Britain, I am perfectly happy to indulge my green fingered fantasies in wonderful gardens like this. Seeing a delicate plant I had struggled with for years, Clematis Tangutica, a climber with waxy lantern shaped yellow bells, running riot up the sunny, sheltered castle walls was confirmation if ever it was needed to leave it to the experts.

Speaking of which, it was Helen Dillon, one of Ireland’s leading garden designers who had recommended these gardens to me, saying it was her absolute favorite.

Unusually the entrance to the upper gardens laid out in the 17th century are via a fortified entrance tower and bridge which lead to a series of tiered gardens each more beautiful than the last with artfully placed sculptures and beautifully framed views of the castle and the church steeples beyond.

The lower gardens are more relaxed with mixed woodland, spring flowering bulbs and a riot of flowering azaleas and rhododendrons in late spring.

Lismore Castle, which is closed to the public belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, who also owns Chatsworth House in England, although the family spend a lot of time here. Most recently the Duke gave a talk on the art collections in both properties which was held in the medieval great hall at the castle. Tickets sold out in minutes with people coming from all over Ireland to attend and contrary to my expectations the Duke was surprisingly relaxed and witty advising would be collectors 'to buy what takes their fancy'. Even if like himself, his desk made from recycled materials came at a price ‘that would make Chippendale blush!’ A generous patron of Irish artists you can see samples of his collection as well as various temporary exhibitions at the Arts Centre, admission is included in the entrance fee to the gardens.

For more information about Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts Centre please click here.

For more Irish Gardens to visit please click here

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com