Christmas in Ireland 2010

Christmas in Ireland, kind of started for us a month ago with the onset of the artic weather when we were forced to down tools and stay indoors which is normally what we do out of choice for practically a month at Christmas anyway. Thankfully most people were already well stocked up with Christmas goodies so there were quite a few tins of Cadburys Roses and Quality Street consumed, not being that organised myself, I even had to resort to raiding my nephews Selection Boxes!

And while it was a novelty for the first few days, and beyond picture postcard pretty, cabin fever set in quickly enough, which is fine if you are fit and able and can brave it out in the cold, but desperate for older neighbours and friends. Some people in the Slieve Bloom mountains have not been able to leave their homes for over a month now. And while we are good at looking after each other in Ireland and by nature sociable, it can be very isolating and lonely especially at this time of the year.

It’s all about family in Ireland at Christmas time and getting home, even if you are wondering why the hell you bothered by Stephens Day, it’s a lot of pressure most of us can do without. There are 1000’s of people still stranded at airports here and in the UK and my heart goes out to them, there is nothing more miserable then that. Some, like my brother are making epic treks via trains, ferry and possibly yak at this stage to get home to a high stool and a decent pint of Guinness in the company of old friends.

Which is possibly what we Irish love most at Christmas meeting up with friends, you can’t go ten paces down Shop Street in Galway without running into someone you know and it will be ‘Howya horse’ (don’t ask) ‘are you coming for a quick one?’ which means heading to the nearest pub and forgetting all about going home….again! The bad weather has had a serious impact on business (could it get any worse?) with shops losing out big time, the same for hotels and restaurants with cancelled events and party nights etc.

Which might be great for our wallets and waistlines but not what we are about, we are not frugal by nature and it doesn’t suit us ( we might have to get used to it) for a while with the budget we have just been landed with? But we will more than likely kick that lot (Fianna Fail) into touch in the New Year which will cheer the majority of us up and give us something to look forward to…. That and the longer days which started yesterday with the winter solstice. So roll on the thaw, Spring time and a change of fortune for all of us.

Nollaig Shona Dhaoibh

Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Newgrange - Ireland's most magical ancient momument.

Read more: Crowds expected to gather to witness magical winter solstice light ceremony at Newgrange

Tomorrow, December 21st is the winter solstice and shortest day of the year when the inner chamber at Newgrange, a World Heritage site, is flooded with light for just a few minutes at sunrise. This year is particularly special because for the first time in 450 years a a total lunar eclipse will occur at the same time, an omen for much needed new enlightment for Ireland? perhaps.

Pre-dating the pyramids this Irish megalithic structure is that precisely aligned and has stood the test of time as just that, a finely tuned highly accurate, despite the subsequent slight tilting of the earths axis, instrument of time. The rising sun gradually illuminates the carved standing stones of the passage eventually reaching the innermost chamber, for what sacred rite or purpose nobody knows for sure.... I was lucky enough to witness this once upon a time, which seemed to stand still, it was like seeing and breathing liquid gold, not something you would ever forget and a great privilege. Nowadays to be present on the solstice, you have to apply to the national lottery to be in with a chance. Daily public access to the monument is through the excellent Bru na Boinne exhibition centre on the far side of the river. There is a simulation of the soltice but its not the same.....

While weather is always a factor, it has to be perfectly clear for the sun to illuminate the chamber, those in the know, stalwart hippies and archaelogists have noted that while it may not happen perfectly on the exact day it will happen on one of the days either side of the soltice. Which was hugely important back then as it marked the end of the winter or darkness and the return to longer days and brightness as the sun starts to broaden its path on the horizon.

There has been a huge return to these ancient customs and celebrations in Ireland with many people hosting soltice gatherings of their own as we have literally 1000's of other less known monuments with solar and or lunar alignments even though Newgrange inevitably grabs the limelight sorry sunlight on the worlds media stage.

Still it's special, and very much part of our rich, ancient culture and heritage which you really should come and see for yourself.

http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/irish-symbols.html

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Read more: Crowds expected to gather to witness magical winter solstice light ceremony at Newgrange

Christmas in Ireland a return to our traditional roots at Bunratty Folk Park

Christmas in rural Ireland fádo, fádo (a long time ago) as it is depicted in Bunratty Folk Park, can only be described as utterly charming and ultimately heartwarming. There is a wave of proud austerity sweeping over Ireland right now in light of recent financial catastrophes and the desire to get back to our roots where hard work, neighbourly kindness and supporting the local community were the order of the day, has never been more keenly felt then at the end of 2010.

Ignore what the media are saying, there is no miserableness on the ground here in Ireland, despite the financial ‘hardship’. But a renewed sense of pride and resilience, we know we have a great country and even better people, and that we will show the world we are a force to be reckoned with in 2011. But first, we are going to enjoy Christmas probably more than ever before because we appreciate just how blessed we really are, by returning to the simple customs and traditions of the past. We have already had more than a ‘sprinkling’ of snow with lots more promised so the scene is set for…

Lighting a candle on Christmas Eve, just as it used to be in every household throughout Ireland, as a symbol of welcome to Mary and Joseph and the baby Jesus, who would be born that night. The same welcome was extended to not only friends and neighbours but especially returning family, who were often ‘out foreign’ working which is sadly the case again in Ireland. But never mind, nobody in Ireland is going ‘to die with the hunger’ certainly not at Christmas, when there will be a nice fat, pasture reared turkey or goose on the table along with all the trimmings, including the Pudding and Cake.

I nearly cried when I saw the one at Bunratty, at least a foot square, and God knows how heavy, covered with no nonsense icing (frosting) and topped with the same little plastic Santy, reindeers and snowmen, fondly remembered from my childhood. And the plum pudding, well we never had one that big? topped with a decent sprig (small branch) of holly and standing proudly on a tinfoil covered platter, a whiff up close would be enough to knock anybody. It’s a lucky family that will be tucking into those two after 'the dinner' with a little whiskey beside the fire….

Nollaig Shona Dhuit (Happy Christmas)

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

For more information on Bunratty Folk Park visit http://www.shannonheritage.com/

Keeping warm: Foxford Woollen Mills has winter all wrapped up in Ireland

Ireland is still caught up an icy Arctic spell of wintry weather that has brought a festive touch to Ireland's landscape albeit a couple of weeks too early. Never mind we need cheering up and warming up and what better way then 'throw'ing on something handwoven in Ireland.

Foxford Woollen Mills has been doing just that for generations. It nestles quietly in the shadow of Nephin mountain right in the heart of Mayo and is well worth a visit should you ever come to Ireland. The drive there takes you through high mountain valleys of amber, gold and purple heathers and inky blue loughs, past woolly sheep grazing on emerald green patches of spikey grass snatched here and there from the roadside bogs lined with stacked brown turf.

All of these earthy colors show up in the beautiful hand-woven rugs, blankets and tweeds that have been made at Foxford Woollen Mills for over 100 years now, in the timeless designs of plaid, herringbone & houndstooth. Wrapping yourself up in one of their throws made from the softest lambs wool imaginable rugs is like stepping into an Irish landscape. Which is not something you will find in any mass produced product?

This is Irish tradition at its best, begun in the 1890’s by one seriously ambitious Sister of Charity, Mother Agnes Morragh Bernard to alleviate poverty in the aftermath of the famine. This small mill has survived just about everything, depressions, recessions, water shortages, fire, debt you name it to make it into the 21st century. From its very first order in 1892 for 500 blankets from Ireland's first department store Clery's in Dublin, it went on to become a household name here and throughout the world.

A Foxford blanket was a typical wedding gift in my mothers day and some 50 years on, it is still keeping her family warm....

For the full story visit www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/foxford-woollen-mills.html

Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

How to tell a good Irish Coffee?

A good Irish coffee should look like a pint of Guinness? No seriously, there should be a cold, thick, firm, creamy head on top of the dark, clear, scalding hot, coffee and whiskey mixture. It definitely should not have mixed or curdled, if it has, send it back and insist on a proper one. Half the pleasure is sipping the hot coffee through a layer of cold cream.

Invented by chef Joe Sheridan in the bar of the Foynes Flyingboat Terminal in the 1940's to warm up damp cold passengers en route to the USA, it still does the trick on a wet miserable afternoon or as an after-dinner soother. Irish coffee recipe, fill a glass with strong black hot coffee, add sugar and Irish whiskey to taste, stir and let settle, drop in a good dollop of freshly whipped cream, the thicker the better and then it will not sink. Sip slowly in front of a blazing log fire with your feet up....

Baileys coffee is a modern variation, substitute Baileys for Whiskey as per the recipe above or for the quick and extremely popular version, just lash plenty of Baileys into your coffee when ever the opportunity arises....Slainte !

How to tell a good hot whiskey? Smell it, the fumes should knock you out (only joking) but you should get a nice steamy whiff of whiskey and cloves which is why it is so good for colds. Throw a Lemsip into it and you have a guaranteed cure for even the worst type of a flu....

Recipe for Hot whiskey, put a nice measure of Irish Whiskey into a strong glass, add a spoon of sugar and a small drop of boiling water, and a slice of lemon studded with cloves. As before sip slowly in front of a blazing log fire...or tucked up in bed with your head under the duvet like most of us, these days....

To find out more about the best brands of Irish Whiskey visit www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

SEE RECIPE - The best Irish coffee ever!

Let's talk about the weather......

Well, let's face it, we have had it up to here with politics and as for religion? we are not even going to go there… Apparently there is a big freeze on its way (in more ways than one) to Ireland, which could result in us having a premature 'White Christmas' yippee...... Just what we need a bit of festive cheer, an excuse to hole up with friends and loved ones and forget about all that’s going on.

We are obsessed with the weather here in Ireland, we talk about it all the time, its woven its way into our language and shaped us and environment over the millennia. And while we never stop going on about it, we are in fact blessed in that we never get extremes of weather in Ireland. ie it never gets too hot or too cold. We don’t get hurricanes, whirlwinds, terrible droughts or floods and all the nasty stuff that goes with them like bugs, flooding and erosion. Okay, we do get occasional flooding but that’s more to do with global warming and our own mis-management (nothing new there) like building on natural flood plains or releasing water from hydro-electric dams…..

But when we are not whingeing about it we realise this how lucky we are especially on what we call a ‘pet day’. This is an unseasonably, perfectly still, warm and sunny day that we get once in a while in the middle of winter, where all is well with us, our neighbours and the world.... Compared to the other extreme which is ‘a day for the high stool’ when the weather is so cold, wet and miserable you have no choice but to head for the pub.



Whereas we usually manage to survive ‘soft days’ (because we are so used to them) which is what we call rainy days. True, you can get some wet days in Ireland were the rain is as soft as an Evian facial but we used the same term to excuse the horizontal stuff that blows in from the Atlantic. Which we really shouldn’t complain about either as these prevailing westerly winds are the reason we have the cleanest air in Europe. The tell-tale signs being the lichen that grows on rocks and trees all over Ireland, which doesnt happen in polluted environments.

And is the reason why, we have the healthiest growing conditions for crops and animals, evident in our fresh food, and even ourselves, if we don’t mess with it of course. So it’s ‘a good day’ we would have it and despite all our financial woes we are beyond fortunate to live in the most beautiful country in the world, Let's hear if for the 'Greens' (whoops, naughty...)

Susan Byron author of http://www.ireland-hidden-gems.com/

For more about the weather in Ireland check out http://www.irishweatheronline.com/

Read more: Arctic spell could see temperatures in Ireland drop to 14F - SEE PHOTOS

Terminal 2 at Dublin Airport - another huge joke?

Terminal 2 Dublin Airport, yet another huge joke at the Irish taxpayers expense? Or maybe not? the Dublin Airport Authority are insisting that the entire cost of the project, some €600 million plus, will be recouped in airport charges and passengers taxes? Dream on....

Did you know? we are one of the few countries in the world, dependent on tourism that actually imposes a €10 passenger tax on people coming into the country. Crazy isn't it? when we are fast running out of options for generating revenue and saving our economy, tourism having been one of the most enduring, is now possibly the last and what do we do?

Ireland's reputation as a tourist destination has never been an issue, it can stand proudly on its own two humble feet. We didn't need a horrendously expensive, shiny, expanse of glass & steel to make that point. We already have two perfectly good International airports at Knock and Shannon, which are practically idle? what were they thinking of?

And to add insult to injury we are now having our noses rubbed in it by being subjected to the most cringe worthy TV advert I have ever seen, you can watch it at the link below. It features a (cute enough, God Bless him) Bond type business suit strolling through the EMPTY (hello, the 400 jobs its was supposed to generate in retail sales, not going to work, if there's actually nobody using it) terminal extolling the virtues of dear old Ireland.

The great poets, playwrights, explorers and authors, true? But "sending racehorses and charity around the globe" in the same sentence? what has either got to do with the other? And since when did any proud Irishman look for credit for being charitable? He even goes on about the fact that our skin burns in 2.4 seconds what is that about? and who the hell cares.....?

We already have the world's attention, right now, for all the wrong reasons. Our economy is a joke, we could even bring Europe down with us and leadership non existent. Everyman, woman and child in this country is now responsible for some 90 billion euros of debt, which they didn't incur (so none of us are likely to jetting off around the world any day soon) Our consolation prize? this great White Elephant we are supposed to be so proud of it's a joke.

The sooner we cop ourselves on and get down to business, the better. Give it over to Michael O'Leary, scrap that tourism tax and get people actually coming into the country and then maybe just maybe we'll have something we can be genuinely proud of....

To watch that video click here www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/irish-jokes.html

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Read more: Dublin Airport’s new gateway to the U.S. opens this week

Surfing in Ireland - where to find those killer waves?

Read more: Surfers discover new wave off the west coast of Ireland

News this week of a new 'killer' wave off the west coast of Ireland, had surfers here bristling with excitement. All the more so, as the exact location was being kept secret?. We have our suspicions though, Mullaghmore or Easkey perhaps?

Obviously not for the faint-hearted or amateur, waves like this 'monster prowler' first captured our imagination and respect in a TV advert for a bank, that was released a couple of years ago. The incredible footage, you can watch it at the
link below, featured Irish surfing champions Fergus Smith and John McCarthy, tackling the 80' high Ailies wave beneath the Cliffs of Moher, which are scary enough in their own right.

A remnant of the last ice age, these 600' cliffs have become Ireland's premier visitor attraction with almost a million visitors annually? A new state of the art visitor center The Atlantic Edge Experience not only explains the geological background, flora and fauna using interactive media, but also local history, music and folklore and is an excellent addition, in that it keeps children of all ages informed, amused and entertained, in what could otherwise be a disappointing experience as often the cliffs are shrouded in mists, fog and rain or as a visitor described it recently 'flying weather'.

But if that isn't 'edgy' enough for you there are plenty of surf schools in nearby Lahinch and indeed all along the western seaboard from Cork to Donegal. In fact we might owe our economy in the future to our wonderful coastline on the westernmost tip of Europe and the vagaries of the weather, which has led to Ireland being promoted as a premier surf destination.

But then that is something these cool dudes have known forever.

You can watch 'that' video here http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/cliffs-of-moher.html

By Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Read more: Surfers discover new wave off the west coast of Ireland

Advice on planning your own trip to Ireland - Don't!

It’s a minefield out there and while Ireland is truly a wonderful country to visit for any or all of the reasons and places mentioned in Irelands Hidden Gems.com we have our share of rotten apples. I take my hat off to those of you who are doing just that, judging by the amount of enquiries I get daily about where to go and what to do and while I am happy to help if I can, I would be the first to admit I certainly don’t know it all.....

The people that do, are Authentic Ireland.com. they have been putting packages together for people travelling to Ireland for over ten years, so they have handled just about every enquiry you can imagine. And if the thought of tailor made packages being expensive frightens you think again.....

Did you know that if there are nine or more of you in a group, they can have you chauffeur driven for the same price as carhire, now you are talking , how's that for peace of mind, someone who knows the road systems and all the best places to go, watering holes included. But that is only one perk?

These guys have long term relationships with the best hotels, castles and restaurants so their business is about keeping each other sweet. So you the client are automatically going to get any free upgrades that are going, plus the most coveted tables by the window or fireside.

It’s a no brainer if you ask me, why spend hours trawling the net in search of a good deal, I cant tell you how many ‘good deals’ I have heard about that I would consider rubbish. For example an email from a honeymoon couple whose ‘tour operator’ had almost exclusively booked them into B&Bs?

Why would they do that when you could get a deal in a romantic castle (we’ve dozens of them) for the same money or less. Not that I am knocking B&Bs we have some excellent ones, but these were dives altogether in the middle of nowhere and that wasn’t an isolated case.

Seems to me these ‘tour operators’ are charging a mighty mark up and ripping off the American public. My advice go to the experts Authentic Travel, it is in their interest to give you the best possible experience of Ireland and yours in getting the most bang for your buck.

And if that isn’t enough to convince you? Think on? As an independent traveller, what happens if your flight is delayed, cancelled, you get ill, or heaven forbid you have any kind of mishap while you are here.

Wouldn’t you like a 24/7 back up service, to a real person, never a machine, who's on the ground, ready to make all the necessary alternative arrangements and meet you at the airport with a hot water bottle and a brandy?

Thought so, or if you are like me and change your mind 50-100 times before finally settling on a plan, having someone hold my hand through that wont lose their patience and cut me off mid demands....well that kind of service is priceless and as they say for everything else there's visa…..

For a stress free holiday of a lifetime visit http://www.authenticireland.com/

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

The Burren Smokehouse - the best smoked salmon in Ireland

The Burren Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna, is the original and best producer of smoked salmon in Ireland and well worth visiting either in person or online. Tasty morsels are left out to be sampled, above the counters stocked with many new and exciting variations of the original oak smoked recipe including an awarding winning organic smoked salmon, farmed off Clare Island which has an extremely low fat content and is understandably a best seller.

All of their products are locally sourced and certified organic and kosher. The fresh farmed salmon from the Atlantic, rainbow trout from Irish lakes and wild mackerel which cannot be farmed, are first filleted and then salted before being smoked over oak shavings. The owners Brigitta from Sweden, and Peter from Lisdoonvarna, have introduced new recipes and ingredients such as honey,lemon, fennel and pepper to enhance the flavors and increase the number of varieties available since they first started smoking in the Burren 21 years ago.

A tempting array, of locally produced cheeses, some of which are smoked by the Burren Smokehouse, such as Kilshanney Gouda are the perfect accompaniments to an al-fresco picnic. Nor will you be able to resist the St Tolas or Bluebell Falls goat cheeses in their delightful almost too-handy packaging which are delicious (try the honey or black pepper) and that’s before you even begin to peruse the shelves piled high to the ceiling with goodies from the best slow food producers in Ireland.

There are chocolates from Skeilligs (my favorite) and take my word for it I am an expert. Jams for the Clare Jam Company, with tempting names like Port & Blackcurrant, Champagne & Raspberry, I can assure you the taste lives up to the names, nothing like a Jameson laced marmalade to put a good start to your day. There are loads of healthy options too, like every type of organic tea and seaweeds, yes seaweed secret of eternal youth is Carrageen or Irish Moss.

Open 7 days a week, the girls will even make you up a smoked salmon sandwich on freshly made brown bread to take away during the summer. Or visit their online shop hampers start from €22.95 and are delivered worldwide, a great idea for presents or stocking up on gourmet Irish food goodies from home.


For more information visit http://www.burrensmokehouse.ie


Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Halloween in Ireland

Halloween is an adaptation of a much, much older tradition called Samhain, a pagan festival that was held in the deep mid-winter of Celtic Ireland, at a time when the land lay barren and dormant. Our ancestors believed that the Gods of the Earth controlled fertility, so they paid homage to them in hope of a fruitful and abundant harvest.

It’s easy with hindsight, to see how that ethereal crossover between the pagan Gods and the Spirit world got woven into a Christian tradition, which the emigrant Irish carried with them when they left these shores during famine times for America. What’s harder to reconcile is the huge crass, commercial event it has morphed into all over the world, but then look what they did to Christmas?

Other Celtic festivals, such as Imbolg-Spring, Bealtaine-Summer and Lughnasa-Autumn are quietly being rediscovered and revived here in Ireland. Funnily enough, in much the same tradition as our ancestors, but with a new and timely respect for the land, and our global environment.

Brigits Garden in Moycullen, County Galway heralds this new awareness, each of the ancient Celtic festivals named above are laid out in a series of gardens which reflect the changing seasons and the ancient traditions associated with them. It’s a great place to go if you want to see and experience some real Irish folklore, or learn about our first language Ogham, each scratch or letter signified the name of a tree. The garden is a registered charity, run for the benefit of the community, and ultimately the world.

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Largest stalactite in the Northern Hemisphere in County Clare

Doolin Cave or Pol an Ionáin, opened to the public in 2006 enabling visitors to view for the first time, what is reputedly the largest free-hanging stalactite in the northern hemisphere. Originally, discovered by speleologists in the 1950’s, it then took the owners John and Helen Browne, almost 20 years to attain planning permission to open the cave to the public, following the strictest environmental protocol. This year, the new visitor centre was officially opened and named after their friend, Irish author Nuala O’Faolain.

And what a triumph it finally is, the whole visitor experience is extremely professional from start to finish. You are immediately aware of their commitment to science, safety and conservation by being asked to wear a hard hat and carry a torch. In doing so, you seamlessly step into the role of an explorer/adventurer which adds enormously to the experience. Numbers are limited to 20 per visit. which lasts approximately an hour with a cap of a total of 55,000 visitors a year.

The guides are excellent, extremely well informed, patient and friendly throughout. As you descend through the main shaft, they explain how the engineers bored and shuttered the shaft in concrete sections 80 feet deep and 20 feet across. They then had to dig out 100 metres of chamber, enlarging the former river bed for access using air explosives, to ventilate, light and monitor the whole operation daily.

Most Irish visitors would have touched on the geology of the Burren in school, it being a prime example of a Karst limestone region on our doorstep, but to actually experience it a 100 feet below the surface, just inches away from real calcite features possibly 1000’s of years old and still being formed is something else entirely. No book, classroom, or internet site can ever replace the real thing.

Then assembling in darkness in the main chamber prior to the stalactite being lit up, I must admit to being wary of perhaps some “Disney” style theatrics which thankfully isnt the case. Subtlety lit, the huge beautiful stalactite stole the show silencing any sceptics or tired seen-it-all before types amongst us. What strikes you first is the sheer size of it, 7 metres long, some 10 tons in weight and hanging incredibly from a crack in the ceiling, in exquisite curtain like folds which changed colour owing to ore deposits, that possibly has taken 400,000 years to form and incredibly is still in the process of being formed, as you watch and listen one drip at a time.

Doolin Cave is a true wonder of the natural world, go and see it next time you are in Ireland.

For further information on Doolin Cave or to book your tickets online visit http://www.doolincave.ie/

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Re : Article - New York Times 22nd Oct 2010

With respect?

What a miserable piece of rubbish Matt Gross wrote about being 'Lost in Ireland' in yesterdays New York Times. Three pages of a whingeing, self-pitying comdemnation of Ireland and its people, which could have been avoided if the bold Matt had done a little bit of forward planning?

I mean which one of us here in Ireland, would land up in the USA with out some sort of a plan? What are your chances of 'losing yourself' while simultaneously 'having a good time' and connecting with the 'locals' setting off from the rental carpark of Newark of JFK without an itinery or even a map?

I get queries everyday from extremely well clued in Americans who visit my website http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/ who are planning their trip to Ireland with laser like precision and I am more then happy to help them achieve that authentic experience of Ireland they all dream about.

So, next time Matt? dont go wandering off on your own, give us a shout and we will sort you out.

Yours sincerely,

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Hugh Lane Gallery, a unique collection of Irish Art in Dublin.

The Hugh Lane Gallery, in Parnell square in Dublin, not only has a great history but an exciting new future, having recreated Francis Bacon's studio in situ, which is proving to be a great tourist attraction. It also contains the Lavery paintings which are not only very beautiful but a colourful and haunting portrayal of Irelands past history including a depiction of the assinated Michael Collins. Did you know it was that Johns Lavery's wife Hazel was the face of Ireland on the old Irish pound note?

Sir Hugh Lane was the nephew of Lady Gregory who along with William Butler Yeats led the revival in Irish at the turn of the century. Well connected he amassed a valuable collection of works of art from leading impressionists such as Monet, Manet, Renoir and Degas which he bequeathed to the Irish nation, who unfortunately lost some of them to London, due to ambiguities in his will, leading to possibly the longest courtcase in Ireland which is still ongoing and unlikely to be resolved in the near future......


However the Gallery has scored a major coup in acquiring the entire Reese Mews Studio of Francis Bacon which was generously donated by his sole heir Michael Edwards. Francis Bacon was born in Dublin but lived and worked in London. 7000 items from his Reese Mews including pieces of the wall he had wiped his paintbrushes on were moved transported here from London and faithfully reconstructed at the gallery. There is a current retrospective including many previously unseen works of his at the gallery celebrating his centenary. Which is not exactly my thing, I have a soft spot for tradition but one has to be open to innovation and admire the foresight in the Huge Lane gallery in staging it, it's well worth a visit and it's free!

10 other things to do and see in the area are.....

1 Visit the Writers Museum on Parnell Square.
2 Enjoy quiet time in the Garden of Remembrance.
3 See The Moving Crib, a very Dublin Christmas tradition celebrating 50 years in 2009.
4 Take a peak at the Rotunda Maternity Hospital.
5 Enjoy the banter in Moore Street Market.
6 Check out the shopping in the ILAC centre.
7 Wander up to the infamous Black Church.
8 Take a bus out to the Botanic Gardens.
9 Visit Glasnevin Cementry burial place of Irelands greatest.
10 Have a pint in the Gravediggers Arms.

For more information on things to do and see in Dublin visit www.irelands-hidden-gems.com
or download the free iPhone city guide My Dublin by Susan Byron

Dublin Castle - a once forbidden visitor attraction

Dublin Castle is quite the fairytale inside and out. Massive medieval fortress walls protect an inner sanctum of majestic staterooms, filled with enough fabulous artwork, furniture and crystal to please any King or Queen ?

The only thing is we Irish don’t do royalty, we even managed to mislay the crown jewels! The nearest we got to a truly noble figurehead was Michael Collins who received the keys of the castle in 1922 ending some 800 years of British rule and tenancy. The question then was, what would we do with it?

Apart from being used as a centre of intelligence, Garda headquarters is still there it is now mainly used for elaborate state occasions. The last visiting dignitary to stay there was Dame Margaret Thatcher, who incidentally turned 85 last week just as the Chilean miners emerged from their incarceration......

And while it is open to the public with excellent informative guided tours conducted daily, including an underground tour of the Viking ramparts, not many Irish people seem to visit? Perhaps, because it has always being deemed more of an English institution then an Irish tradition, and an interest in anything with an English association was certainly frowned upon when I was a child. The chapel royal has only recently been reopened and has a very special ornate gothic interor. There is even an enclosed medieval knot garden on the site of the original Dubh Linn or black pool at the epicentre of the original city where the castle cat still reigns peacefully over his minions.....

But the real jewel in the crown, see I told you we still had some, is the Chester Beatty Library in the grounds of Dublin Castle. It houses a wonderful collection of oriental art and rare manuscripts and is a million times more interesting then the Book of Kells and its free! In the same building is the wonderful Silk Road Cafe whose cuisine is based on the delights of the Far East....its a 10 out of 10 place to eat or have mint tea, coffee and turkish delight.


For more information on Dublin visit http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/ or download my free iPhone app guide My Dublin by Susan Byron

Dublin City, an insider's guide to the capital city of Ireland

Welcome to Dublin, I was born and bred here so I should know what I am talking about, right? Possibly of Viking descent? my maiden name Doyle means Dubh Ghaill or dark stranger and we can trace our roots back to Font Hill, right next door to the Guinness brewery which kind of explains a lot?

Never mind, Dublin is steeped in history from medieval times to the present day with an 800 year chunk of British rule which hugely influenced the built environment and of course our culture? We Dubliners are fiercely proud of our city and its history, especially the rebel bit? And although it has seen enormous changes in the last few years with the rise of the Celtic tiger, now extinct..... we all have our favourites, places we grew up with that are much the same as they always were, full of real history and character and well worth seeing if you want the real deal....

The following are my Top 10 attractions in Dublin most of which are free listed alongside each of these are 10 other interesting things to do and see in the area that you wont find in many of the guidebooks. The city is very compact and easy to get around, you can always, hop on a city tour bus, the Luas tram or just pick an area and walk around and Go n'eiri an t'adh leat - Good Luck !

Susan's Top 10 favourite attractions in Dublin

1 Dublin Castle
2 Guinness Storehouse
3 Collins Barracks, National Museum of Decorative Arts.
4 Hugh lane Gallery, Parnell Square
5 Christchurch Cathedral.
6 IMMA, Irish Museum of Modern Art.
7 Farmleigh House, Phoenix Park.
8 The Chester Beatty Library, Dublin Castle.
9 The National Museum, Kildare Street
10 Dublin Zoo

For more information on each of the above visit http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/dublin.html or download my free Iphone app guide My Dublin by Susan Byron

The Burren - a rich and rare limestone landscape

A lifetime would be too short to fully explore the Burren, never mind a short holiday or day trip. For a start you will probably never find it? Although 'it' covers some 360 sq kms ie nearly all of County Clare, most people end up getting lost and constantly asking for directions when in fact they are often already 'there'. What people seem to envisage is an actual, neat, little place as in ‘The Burren’ somewhere, complete with limestone pavements, wild flowers etc. It does exist, it is just that it's huge and everywhere!

Look over any stone wall in the springtime and you will see the famous Burren orchids,blue gentians and a whole host of other wild alpine wildflowers you wouldn’t expect to find growing there, like Edelweiss and Mountain Avens. Marvel as you walk across the bare limestone pavements that were once the ocean beds of warm tropical seas millions of years ago. Or go underground into one of the many caves to truly understand how erosion has moulded this magnificent landscape and is continuing to do so at the rate of the thickness of a sheet of paper each year, so there's no hurry it will be here for a while yet ....

10 Other things to See and Do in the Burren....

1 The Cliffs of Moher, stunning views out over Ireland's own lost city of Atlantis with an excellent state of the art, all-weather visitor centre, restaurant, shop and facilities.

2 Drive out to Blackhead, for more views, park the car at the lighthouse and climb up the mountain to the stonefort of Cathair Dhuin Irghuis.

3 Ailwee Caves & Birds of Prey Centre, guided tour of underground caves discovered by a man out walking his dog? Fly falcons or try out award winning cheeses in the farm shop.

4 Ballyvaughan village and harbour, pretty thatched cottages, nice crafts shops and restaurants, farmers market in the summer. The Burren in Bloom festival takes place on the first weekend in May and celebrates the wild flowers.

5 Bishopsquarter beach, named after the Bishops who had the rights to 'the finest oysters in Dooneen Bay' some 600 years ago. A great place to have a picnic, take a walk, picnic, or fly a kite with safe swimming and powdery sand dunes to play in.

6 Burren House Restaurant and Craft centre, have a nice lunch here with one of the best views out over Galway Bay, browse around their well stocked souvenir & clothes shop afterwards.

7 The Flaggy Shore, described by our own celebrated poet Seamus Heaney as capable of ‘blowing the heart wide open’ is a tarred road used as a walk, encircling the coast at New Quay.

8 Corcomroe Abbey, Bellharbour. Ruined 600 year old Cistercian abbey and graveyard, site of the wonderful Easter dawn masses of yesteryear. A revered and holy place, the road up to it cuts through a ringfort.

9 The Burren Perfumery,Carron Irelands only perfumery with an award winning herb garden, shop and organic tearooms, free admission.

10 Kinvara, another nice harbour village. Home to the Cuckoo Fleadh & Crinniu na mBad festival. Medieval banquets held in Dunguaire Castle.

For more information about Ireland visit http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/index.html

Susan Byron

The Hunt Museum, Limerick has the largest private collection of arts & antiquities in Ireland.

‘The loveliness of many coloured gems has called me away from external cares’ an inscription on a medieval stained glass exhibit aptly describes the Hunt Museum in Limerick. In my opinion, the best in Ireland as it only displays a small, but excellent selection of the finest national and international treasures. Larger museums tend to overdo it causing the visitor to suffer from culture fatigue, and not a little boredom.

Spread over just three small floors, a basement and a gallery, you can wander through the exhibits which refreshingly, are not arranged in chronological order. Pre Christian, and Viking exhibits are neatly juxtaposed with Egyptian artefacts, my favourite is a small clay falcon from Luxor. An exquisite bronze horse by Leonardo DaVinci is surrounded by fine Japanese porcelain and Ming vases. You sift through drawers laden with Impressionist sketches, there is even a half finished Renoir languishing in one of them......

So it really is quite special and different, the legacy of a local couple John and Gertrude Hunt. He was an art dealer and expert on medieval art and furniture, who advised Lord Gort on the restoration of nearby Bunratty Castle. They were also keen archaeologists and instigated projects such as Lough Gur and Graggaunowen and obviously well travelled. The couple began collecting in earnest shortly after the war, they had a particular interest in medieval religious art and amassed a very valuable collection which they kindly donated to the nation on condition that the state provided suitable premises to house it in.

To cut a very long story short, including the Irish government declining the collection, the former customs house, a fine Palladian styled building designed by Davis Ducart in 1765, on the banks of the Shannon, was chosen, refurbished and opened to the public in 1996. It is well sign posted with plenty of parking locally, has all the usual facilities including an excellent restaurant for restorative coffee breaks or a light lunch.

For 10 more things to see and do in the area, including King Johns Castle, St Marys cathdral, a romanesque masterpiece or Brown Thomas, Irelands most prestigious department store? click here.

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems

Craggaunowen, Sixmilebridge, County Clare is a living history bronze-age visitor park.

Craggaunowen is an example of what an early bronze age settlement might have looked like in Ireland long ago. Each building was constructed according to the best records of the time and has now matured into its natural setting. Complete with Crannogs, woven hut lake dwellings, reached by bridges or submerged pathways. Round stone reed- thatched farmsteads with open fires hint at how daily life was carried on with Fulach Fia, cooking pits and wool looms.

And if you have ever wondered what went on in the 40,000 odd ringforts around Ireland this example might explain it. These circular forts were defended by a band of stout wooden stakes on top of a high outer bank of stones and earth with an underground passage or souterrain which served as a food store or escape route if necessary.

These people were hunter gatherers and later farmers who grew spelt, oats and barley. There are live boars with cute babies to admire and miniature sheep whose wool was plucked rather than shorn to be woven into cloth. Costumed guides are available to elaborate on any aspect of particular interest and the public are invited to join in, especially the children.

READ MORE: Did the Irish and St. Brendan discover America first? - VIDEO

The whole site appears so uncontrived that it is hard to believe that the only genuine artefact is the remains of a 5000 year canoe carved out of a tree trunk. Later these people would use hide covered boats which experts believed capable of reaching the Americas hundreds of years before Christopher Columbus.
Following in the footsteps of St Brendan the Navigator, Tim Severin proved it was by possible by sailing across Atlantic in a similar boat he built himself which is now on display at Craggaunowen. The battered boat, with its skin covered hull held together with bits of leather is a scary reminder of their courage facing frontiers we could not even imagine in the comfort of our 21st century life.

For 10 more things to do and see in the area including Holy Island, Quinn Abbey and Knappogue Castle? click here

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems

Visit Glenstal Abbey, a Benedictine Monastery in Murroe, County Limerick.

Glenstal Abbey is a very quiet and holy place despite its surprising appearance. A 19th century Norman revivalist Castle, it was home to the Barrington family who lived there up until it was sold to the Benedictine order of Monks who arrived from Belgium in 1927. It became a working abbey with a dairy farm, guest house and boading school for boys, which continues today. You can stay here on a personal retreat if you like, but even a day trip will be enough to restore your mind, body and soul.

In recent years the Monks have become quite famous with the release for sale of their recorded Gregorian chants. A reaction perhaps, to the stresses and strains of life outside of these walls, with which we are all too familiar, or a longing for the alternative peace and tranquillity of monastic life, without the constraints? Did I tell you about their delicious chocolate truffles laced with liqueurs, such as Benedictine itself, Chartreuse etc from monasteries of Europe, I could be converted.....

Glenstal Abbey has also just released its first ever cookbook, which no doubt will be just as successful as their best selling prayer books ! Real ‘soul food’ based on the Monk's legendry hospitality, and a homage to big-hearted, homely comfort food laden with blessed butter, cream, and eggs by the dozen. Compiled by Brother Anselm (real life brother to actor John Hurt) it is available directly from their online shop, as are their divine truffles above!

A working abbey in a no-nonsense style yet warm, hospitable and kind. Spiritual guidance is available and the church is open to all religious persuasions, including with the beautiful Icon crypt, designed as a portal to the cosmos. The abbey itself follows a rigorous schedule of prayers, service and devotion combined with domestic life and constant visitors.

There is a magnificent arboretum with ancient specimen trees, one of the few remaining parts of the primeval forest which once cover all of Ireland. The 17th century tiered walled garden, has been restored and a special garden planted with biblical herbs and flowers introduced. It overlooks an ornamental lake which is a delight in the Autumn, and of course there are plenty of quiet places to sit and ponder, or just breathe in the unique peace that is to be found in this sacred place....

For 10 Other things to do and see in the area including the Glen of Aherlow, Galtee Mountains, Brian Boru Centre and Killaloe? click here

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems

Experience Irish culture and history at Bunratty Castle, Clare

If you have only one day in which to ‘to do’ Ireland I would highly recommend visiting Bunratty Castle and Folk Park as it will give you a very good feel for the culture and history of Ireland. It very close to Shannon airport, about 10 miles, so an ideal place to visit prior to departure as we all invariably leave way to much time for dropping off the hire car, why spend hours hanging about the airport when you could be here instead?

Bunratty Castle itself, is a very fine and impressive furnished 15th century medieval fortress with great views out over the estuary and surrounding lands it once protected. Visitors can enjoy a medieval style banquet each night during the summer or simply wander around the keep and ramparts during the day as part of your admission to the Folk Park complex, which will keep you occupied all day as you visit the various cottages and homesteads that were once occupied by farmers, fishermen and shepherds.

These buildings are the ‘real’ deal not mock-ups, in fact one of the cottages was actually transported stone by stone from its original position nearby, in the middle of Runway 1. No 1! Most though, have been faithfully rebuilt in the style and of the day using vernacular materials such as local Liscannor stone, and river reeds for thatching.

You can see fruit scones being baked, sit in on a school lesson or enjoy the ‘craic’ in the pub. It was said ‘that a yard of a counter was as good as a farm of land’ in the old days. Most grocery shops included a bar, some still do. Most small towns in Ireland had a disproportionate amount of pubs to the population, but again that’s another story.

There is even a ‘big house’ with a walled garden, planted with original Irish species of flowers, fruit and vegatables, depicting the landed gentry and subsequent tenant’s lifestyle. Keep a good eye out for poachers and the illicit ‘poitin’ still down by the lake. And consider yourself blessed altogether if you land up at one of their special themed events like the Harvest Festival at the end of September.

For 10 more Things to Do and See in the area including the Hunt Museum, a guided walk of Angelas Ashes landmarks and Limerick City itself? click here

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems