Step into a storybook garden with a fairytale castle at Lismore Castle and Gardens Arts Centre in County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens, Lismore, County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens are exactly how I imagined my storybook garden to be, complete with a fairytale castle and Prince Charming throwin for good measure. A place where I could wile away endless sunny afternoons in a floaty dress, playing Titania in "A Midsummer’s Night Dream". Or take afternoon tea in the shade of a gnarled old apple tree having painted yet another perfect botanical watercolor.

Neatly trimmed box hedges barely contain the flower filled borders with not a dead plant, bald spot or a weed to be seen anywhere. Thinking an invisible team of gardeners must work through the night to maintain such perfection, I smiled in lazy contentment at the line of wheelbarrows neatly parked outside the greenhouses and potting sheds.

Having long since given up the struggle to keep up with the famed gardens of Sissinghurst in Britain, I am perfectly happy to indulge my green fingered fantasies in wonderful gardens like this. Seeing a delicate plant I had struggled with for years, Clematis Tangutica, a climber with waxy lantern shaped yellow bells, running riot up the sunny, sheltered castle walls was confirmation if ever it was needed to leave it to the experts.

Speaking of which, it was Helen Dillon, one of Ireland’s leading garden designers who had recommended these gardens to me, saying it was her absolute favorite.

Unusually the entrance to the upper gardens laid out in the 17th century are via a fortified entrance tower and bridge which lead to a series of tiered gardens each more beautiful than the last with artfully placed sculptures and beautifully framed views of the castle and the church steeples beyond.

The lower gardens are more relaxed with mixed woodland, spring flowering bulbs and a riot of flowering azaleas and rhododendrons in late spring.

Lismore Castle, which is closed to the public belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, who also owns Chatsworth House in England, although the family spend a lot of time here. Most recently the Duke gave a talk on the art collections in both properties which was held in the medieval great hall at the castle. Tickets sold out in minutes with people coming from all over Ireland to attend and contrary to my expectations the Duke was surprisingly relaxed and witty advising would be collectors 'to buy what takes their fancy'. Even if like himself, his desk made from recycled materials came at a price ‘that would make Chippendale blush!’ A generous patron of Irish artists you can see samples of his collection as well as various temporary exhibitions at the Arts Centre, admission is included in the entrance fee to the gardens.

For more information about Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts Centre please click here.

For more Irish Gardens to visit please click here

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Return the Ballyvaughan road sign now - controversy over removal errupts in Ireland

Do you know it defies belief, when every man woman and child in this country is putting their best foot forward to recover from our economic woes that the government pulls the rug from under us, yet again.

This time its one of those ‘jobs worth’ moments when the NRA (National Roads Authority) have simply removed an iconic sign that has been standing at the crossroads in Ballyvaughan for over 30 years.

Possibly the most photographed road sign in Ireland, as one protester rightly put it, more ‘folk art’ then actual road signage. It is located along what Conde Nast has described as one of the Top 10 road trips in the world, out to Doolin via Blackhead.

But the NRA obviously don't want you to go there. Let me introduce you to the latest great waste of money in Ireland - the new system of 'navigating by numbers'. Apparently the powers that be are spending 60 million euros on new road signage in Ireland. So, we now have complete dead-end boreens grandly renamed as the L150001 or whatever. Why? Who cares? The answer: nobody.

Locals know where they live. For crying out loud in this day and age of smartphones, using inbuilt satellite technology and tracking, only in Ireland would we be spending a fortune on misleading the tourists. If it wasn’t such a serious waste of money it might even be funny. but this is money that would be better funding tourism initiatives like my own and countless other small businesses who are trying to encourage not discourage visitors to Ireland.

And, okay we dont want you to get lost but its a very small green island, how lost can you get?

You can Like the Return the Ballyvaughan Sign Facebook page here.

Or rent a car and try out the Motoring by Numbers for yourself here

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Glasnevin Museum - tracing your Irish roots

Glasnevin Cemetery is not where you might expect to find Ireland’s only Thea award winning visitor attraction and in fairness, not what I would normally recommend as a family day out? But the new museum at Glasnevin is so good, it’s hard to put into words.

Death is something we all have to face at some stage and far from being macabre or morbid, the Trust’s imaginative, sensitive and respectful handling of a difficult subject is to be applauded along with all the other accolades it has picked up since it opened in 2010.

Every Dubliner has some connection with Glasnevin and their excellent new online genealogy service is helping people from all over the world retrace their Irish roots. And to celebrate their first birthday the Glasnevin Museum are giving away 10 free vouchers to their Irish American friends for the best comments on this post.

Over a million people have been buried there, many in unmarked graves, since it was founded in 1832 by Daniel O’Connell, who believed every citizen had a right to a proper burial regardless of their religion which is why it remains secular to this day. Modelled on the Pere Lachaise in Paris, it doubled as a pleasure garden in Victorian times with elaborate mausoleums and clipped yews lining the maze of pathways, which are in constant need of repair and upgrading which the Trust hopes to have completed for the anniversary of our Independence in 2016.

The new museum (just inside the main gates) is on 3 levels with the tour starting underground in the Necropolis (City of the Dead). A scrolling screen displays the names of all the people buried there on a loop which takes 10 hours to complete. There is a small theatre where the filmed introduction is shown and a charming, nostalgic display of items categorised by the professions of people that might once of owned them.

Innovative displays (interactive headstones) lend a fascinating insight into the social history of Dublin, you can even eavesdrop on the gravediggers conversations. Upstairs there are further interactive displays (with great views) including a 10 metre timeline with a detailed history of the great and good (and not so good) buried at Glasnevin and an exhibition about Daniel O'Connell. The iconic new building is stunning, with good facilities (of course) a shop and a nice restaurant.

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

To enquire about the online genealogy facility visit http://www.glasnevinmuseum.ie

Irish Holy Well, pagan origins - christian cures....

There are 100’s of holy wells all over of Ireland, sacred places since long before they were credited with the Christian saints names they bear today and are well worth a pause and a prayer if you are lucky enough to come across one of them. ‘Tobar’ is the Irish word for well, so anywhere with a name that ends in ‘tubber’ as in Baile an Tobair (the town of the well) or Ballintubber is bound to have one, most likely close to the church (where Pierce Brosnan got married) or graveyard.

Others, you will spot these easily enough by the roadside, as they are often adorned with statues, colourful (plastic)flowers and dozens of rosary beads. But many more you will have to ask about locally to get directions and possibly hike over some muddy fields and ditches to get to them. Which will be well worth the trouble (call it penance) as nearly all these wells are in stunning locations (the celts, monks, saints knew how to pick them) high up in the mountains, isolated onislands, or in wild and remote places such as the Burren (forty holy wells) which lend themselves to peaceful prayer or contemplation at least. Many are named after St Patrick, the patron saint of Ireland or St Brigid, originally a pagan goddess, or a local saint such as St Colman in Clare and are credited with being a cure for most ailments the most popular being ‘eyes’ and ‘teeth’.

Whether that was because of the lack of dentists or the expense of spectacles at the time who knows but these places are still being visited today probably even more so? Perhaps as a cure for depression in these recessionary times or world weary travellers seeking solace in nature where the water (a symbol of new life in many cultures) gushes forth from the earth. People often leave small, if odd? tokens like chocolate wrappers, coins or pieces of cloth tied to the branches of overhanging trees. Which makes you wonder about the lives of the people who have visited over the years, hopefully their prayers were answered and their ailments cured.

Go dté sibh slán - May you go safely.

For more Sacred Places in Ireland visit www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/irish-symbols.com

Or download free St Patricks Day iPhone app here

Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Christmas in Ireland 2010

Christmas in Ireland, kind of started for us a month ago with the onset of the artic weather when we were forced to down tools and stay indoors which is normally what we do out of choice for practically a month at Christmas anyway. Thankfully most people were already well stocked up with Christmas goodies so there were quite a few tins of Cadburys Roses and Quality Street consumed, not being that organised myself, I even had to resort to raiding my nephews Selection Boxes!

And while it was a novelty for the first few days, and beyond picture postcard pretty, cabin fever set in quickly enough, which is fine if you are fit and able and can brave it out in the cold, but desperate for older neighbours and friends. Some people in the Slieve Bloom mountains have not been able to leave their homes for over a month now. And while we are good at looking after each other in Ireland and by nature sociable, it can be very isolating and lonely especially at this time of the year.

It’s all about family in Ireland at Christmas time and getting home, even if you are wondering why the hell you bothered by Stephens Day, it’s a lot of pressure most of us can do without. There are 1000’s of people still stranded at airports here and in the UK and my heart goes out to them, there is nothing more miserable then that. Some, like my brother are making epic treks via trains, ferry and possibly yak at this stage to get home to a high stool and a decent pint of Guinness in the company of old friends.

Which is possibly what we Irish love most at Christmas meeting up with friends, you can’t go ten paces down Shop Street in Galway without running into someone you know and it will be ‘Howya horse’ (don’t ask) ‘are you coming for a quick one?’ which means heading to the nearest pub and forgetting all about going home….again! The bad weather has had a serious impact on business (could it get any worse?) with shops losing out big time, the same for hotels and restaurants with cancelled events and party nights etc.

Which might be great for our wallets and waistlines but not what we are about, we are not frugal by nature and it doesn’t suit us ( we might have to get used to it) for a while with the budget we have just been landed with? But we will more than likely kick that lot (Fianna Fail) into touch in the New Year which will cheer the majority of us up and give us something to look forward to…. That and the longer days which started yesterday with the winter solstice. So roll on the thaw, Spring time and a change of fortune for all of us.

Nollaig Shona Dhaoibh

Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Christmas in Ireland a return to our traditional roots at Bunratty Folk Park

Christmas in rural Ireland fádo, fádo (a long time ago) as it is depicted in Bunratty Folk Park, can only be described as utterly charming and ultimately heartwarming. There is a wave of proud austerity sweeping over Ireland right now in light of recent financial catastrophes and the desire to get back to our roots where hard work, neighbourly kindness and supporting the local community were the order of the day, has never been more keenly felt then at the end of 2010.

Ignore what the media are saying, there is no miserableness on the ground here in Ireland, despite the financial ‘hardship’. But a renewed sense of pride and resilience, we know we have a great country and even better people, and that we will show the world we are a force to be reckoned with in 2011. But first, we are going to enjoy Christmas probably more than ever before because we appreciate just how blessed we really are, by returning to the simple customs and traditions of the past. We have already had more than a ‘sprinkling’ of snow with lots more promised so the scene is set for…

Lighting a candle on Christmas Eve, just as it used to be in every household throughout Ireland, as a symbol of welcome to Mary and Joseph and the baby Jesus, who would be born that night. The same welcome was extended to not only friends and neighbours but especially returning family, who were often ‘out foreign’ working which is sadly the case again in Ireland. But never mind, nobody in Ireland is going ‘to die with the hunger’ certainly not at Christmas, when there will be a nice fat, pasture reared turkey or goose on the table along with all the trimmings, including the Pudding and Cake.

I nearly cried when I saw the one at Bunratty, at least a foot square, and God knows how heavy, covered with no nonsense icing (frosting) and topped with the same little plastic Santy, reindeers and snowmen, fondly remembered from my childhood. And the plum pudding, well we never had one that big? topped with a decent sprig (small branch) of holly and standing proudly on a tinfoil covered platter, a whiff up close would be enough to knock anybody. It’s a lucky family that will be tucking into those two after 'the dinner' with a little whiskey beside the fire….

Nollaig Shona Dhuit (Happy Christmas)

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

For more information on Bunratty Folk Park visit http://www.shannonheritage.com/

Keeping warm: Foxford Woollen Mills has winter all wrapped up in Ireland

Ireland is still caught up an icy Arctic spell of wintry weather that has brought a festive touch to Ireland's landscape albeit a couple of weeks too early. Never mind we need cheering up and warming up and what better way then 'throw'ing on something handwoven in Ireland.

Foxford Woollen Mills has been doing just that for generations. It nestles quietly in the shadow of Nephin mountain right in the heart of Mayo and is well worth a visit should you ever come to Ireland. The drive there takes you through high mountain valleys of amber, gold and purple heathers and inky blue loughs, past woolly sheep grazing on emerald green patches of spikey grass snatched here and there from the roadside bogs lined with stacked brown turf.

All of these earthy colors show up in the beautiful hand-woven rugs, blankets and tweeds that have been made at Foxford Woollen Mills for over 100 years now, in the timeless designs of plaid, herringbone & houndstooth. Wrapping yourself up in one of their throws made from the softest lambs wool imaginable rugs is like stepping into an Irish landscape. Which is not something you will find in any mass produced product?

This is Irish tradition at its best, begun in the 1890’s by one seriously ambitious Sister of Charity, Mother Agnes Morragh Bernard to alleviate poverty in the aftermath of the famine. This small mill has survived just about everything, depressions, recessions, water shortages, fire, debt you name it to make it into the 21st century. From its very first order in 1892 for 500 blankets from Ireland's first department store Clery's in Dublin, it went on to become a household name here and throughout the world.

A Foxford blanket was a typical wedding gift in my mothers day and some 50 years on, it is still keeping her family warm....

For the full story visit www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/foxford-woollen-mills.html

Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Visit Glenstal Abbey, a Benedictine Monastery in Murroe, County Limerick.

Glenstal Abbey is a very quiet and holy place despite its surprising appearance. A 19th century Norman revivalist Castle, it was home to the Barrington family who lived there up until it was sold to the Benedictine order of Monks who arrived from Belgium in 1927. It became a working abbey with a dairy farm, guest house and boading school for boys, which continues today. You can stay here on a personal retreat if you like, but even a day trip will be enough to restore your mind, body and soul.

In recent years the Monks have become quite famous with the release for sale of their recorded Gregorian chants. A reaction perhaps, to the stresses and strains of life outside of these walls, with which we are all too familiar, or a longing for the alternative peace and tranquillity of monastic life, without the constraints? Did I tell you about their delicious chocolate truffles laced with liqueurs, such as Benedictine itself, Chartreuse etc from monasteries of Europe, I could be converted.....

Glenstal Abbey has also just released its first ever cookbook, which no doubt will be just as successful as their best selling prayer books ! Real ‘soul food’ based on the Monk's legendry hospitality, and a homage to big-hearted, homely comfort food laden with blessed butter, cream, and eggs by the dozen. Compiled by Brother Anselm (real life brother to actor John Hurt) it is available directly from their online shop, as are their divine truffles above!

A working abbey in a no-nonsense style yet warm, hospitable and kind. Spiritual guidance is available and the church is open to all religious persuasions, including with the beautiful Icon crypt, designed as a portal to the cosmos. The abbey itself follows a rigorous schedule of prayers, service and devotion combined with domestic life and constant visitors.

There is a magnificent arboretum with ancient specimen trees, one of the few remaining parts of the primeval forest which once cover all of Ireland. The 17th century tiered walled garden, has been restored and a special garden planted with biblical herbs and flowers introduced. It overlooks an ornamental lake which is a delight in the Autumn, and of course there are plenty of quiet places to sit and ponder, or just breathe in the unique peace that is to be found in this sacred place....

For 10 Other things to do and see in the area including the Glen of Aherlow, Galtee Mountains, Brian Boru Centre and Killaloe? click here

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems

Experience Irish culture and history at Bunratty Castle, Clare

If you have only one day in which to ‘to do’ Ireland I would highly recommend visiting Bunratty Castle and Folk Park as it will give you a very good feel for the culture and history of Ireland. It very close to Shannon airport, about 10 miles, so an ideal place to visit prior to departure as we all invariably leave way to much time for dropping off the hire car, why spend hours hanging about the airport when you could be here instead?

Bunratty Castle itself, is a very fine and impressive furnished 15th century medieval fortress with great views out over the estuary and surrounding lands it once protected. Visitors can enjoy a medieval style banquet each night during the summer or simply wander around the keep and ramparts during the day as part of your admission to the Folk Park complex, which will keep you occupied all day as you visit the various cottages and homesteads that were once occupied by farmers, fishermen and shepherds.

These buildings are the ‘real’ deal not mock-ups, in fact one of the cottages was actually transported stone by stone from its original position nearby, in the middle of Runway 1. No 1! Most though, have been faithfully rebuilt in the style and of the day using vernacular materials such as local Liscannor stone, and river reeds for thatching.

You can see fruit scones being baked, sit in on a school lesson or enjoy the ‘craic’ in the pub. It was said ‘that a yard of a counter was as good as a farm of land’ in the old days. Most grocery shops included a bar, some still do. Most small towns in Ireland had a disproportionate amount of pubs to the population, but again that’s another story.

There is even a ‘big house’ with a walled garden, planted with original Irish species of flowers, fruit and vegatables, depicting the landed gentry and subsequent tenant’s lifestyle. Keep a good eye out for poachers and the illicit ‘poitin’ still down by the lake. And consider yourself blessed altogether if you land up at one of their special themed events like the Harvest Festival at the end of September.

For 10 more Things to Do and See in the area including the Hunt Museum, a guided walk of Angelas Ashes landmarks and Limerick City itself? click here

Talk to you next week Susan Byron author of Irelands Hidden Gems