The Aran Islands, County Galway

Upturned currachs on the Aran Islands - photo credit Susan Byron

The Aran Islands, despite being the most popular and most visited islands off the coast of Galway are still very special, being pocket-sized versions of the mainland and the world-famous karst limestone region known as the Burren. Inis Oír and Inis Meain in particular, are good indicators of how life used to be in Ireland, not so very long ago, whether you were a fisherman, farmer or shepherd or all three thrown in together for good measure, dictated by necessity at the time. So, if you get a chance at all, you should definitely take a trip out to either Inis Mór (the big island) Inis Meain (the middle island) or Inis Oír (the eastern island). Inis Mór is where it’s all happening with the precarious, cliff side, stone fort of Dún Aengus which is a huge draw. Unfortunately, it is also where the world and his mother goes every July and August also,  so do yourself a HUGE favour and choose one of the smaller islands, preferably Inis Meain (my favourite) which are just as lovely, perhaps even more so when you consider that you will most likely have it to yourself ! Born of a long tradition of fishing and farming these once isolated island communities were self-sufficient and pretty much oblivious to life on the mainland, some say they still are! Legend has it that World War 2 pretty much passed them by altogether, even today they don’t pay too much attention to what is going on in Dublin, never mind the rest of the world! The Irish language is alive and well out there, as is traditional Irish music and crafts like knitting and basket making and you will not get closer to nature than on any of the Aran Islands. And yet, we have to credit modern-day technology like broadband for leading a revival and return to many of Ireland’s islands that suffered a such a huge exodus in the past.

There is a daily service a during the summer, to each of the three Aran Islands from either Rossaveal or Doolin Harbour which begins around about St Patrick’s Day, or Easter at the latest and runs until the end of October, if possible. Sailing times differ slightly depending on the weather and the tides of course, so always check directly just in case! Extracted for the Treasure Ireland series of Irish Travel Guides written by Susan Byron author of the independent travel website www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

King John's Castle, Limerick City, revamped and ready for action

King John's Castle, Limerick City

King Johns Castle has just re-opened following a €5.7 million revamp which has turned it into a much more attractive, interesting and educational venue than it was, in the heart of Limerick City. 

You cannot fail to miss the huge stone curtain walls or stout round towers on the approach from Thomond Bridge, incidentally there is free parking for visitors just past the Bishop’s Palace on the left. Follow the signs then to the new entrance just left of the visitors center, a large glass building which now houses a bright, new café, gift shop and toilet facilities. Built in the 13th century by King Johns Castle has had a very long and turbulent history, as you can imagine, much of it filled with blood and gore, as you might expect....

What started as an island Viking settlement, you can still see the original ringed settlement walls underground, and the footprints of the wattle and daub medieval dwellings, as well as later additions and battlements which saw the castle develop into a major strategic stronghold between warring factions in the region. The new exhibition area tells the story of King John (brother of Richard the Lionheart) from those very first settlers to the Norman conquerors and the infamous siege of Limerick which led to the signing of the Treaty a year later in1642, through the medium of print and film with no less than three theaters. As well as interactive maps and ‘talking’ figures as well as lots of fun ideas for kids of all ages. A group of Italian students where busy with their smartphones taking photos of themselves dressing up while younger children were busy building stone arches, firing mock canons and opening discovery drawers to inspect medieval artifacts and treasures....

You could easily spend several couple of hours working your way through the new exhibition (a great rainy day alternative for visitors to the West of Ireland) but be sure to leave plenty of time to explore the actual castle itself which is pretty much as it would have looked in the 13th century, only cleaner and a lot safer then when it was built for King John, who never actually visited but that’s another story. Friendly, costumed guides continue the historical conversation with working displays of weaponry, carpentry, masonry and coinage. You can even walk through the ruins of the medieval banqueting hall, say a prayer in the newly constructed replica church or try on a helmet and brandish a sword in the campaign tent. But the best views are high up on the actual battlements themselves with a 360 panorama of the city and the River Shannon from where view a thousand years and more of history from St Mary’s Cathedral, to the Treaty Stone, to the new Thomond Park stadium which defends it’s (rugby) turf with as much blood and passion as it’s medieval ancestors defended the city at King John’s Castle all those years ago.

Open daily from 10am-5pm, Adults €9 Children €5.25 Families €20.60 concessions available for seniors and students.

For more information or to book tickets online visit King Johns Castle

For more Things To Do and See around Limerick please click here.

By Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Step into a storybook garden with a fairytale castle at Lismore Castle and Gardens Arts Centre in County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens, Lismore, County Waterford

Lismore Castle Gardens are exactly how I imagined my storybook garden to be, complete with a fairytale castle and Prince Charming throwin for good measure. A place where I could wile away endless sunny afternoons in a floaty dress, playing Titania in "A Midsummer’s Night Dream". Or take afternoon tea in the shade of a gnarled old apple tree having painted yet another perfect botanical watercolor.

Neatly trimmed box hedges barely contain the flower filled borders with not a dead plant, bald spot or a weed to be seen anywhere. Thinking an invisible team of gardeners must work through the night to maintain such perfection, I smiled in lazy contentment at the line of wheelbarrows neatly parked outside the greenhouses and potting sheds.

Having long since given up the struggle to keep up with the famed gardens of Sissinghurst in Britain, I am perfectly happy to indulge my green fingered fantasies in wonderful gardens like this. Seeing a delicate plant I had struggled with for years, Clematis Tangutica, a climber with waxy lantern shaped yellow bells, running riot up the sunny, sheltered castle walls was confirmation if ever it was needed to leave it to the experts.

Speaking of which, it was Helen Dillon, one of Ireland’s leading garden designers who had recommended these gardens to me, saying it was her absolute favorite.

Unusually the entrance to the upper gardens laid out in the 17th century are via a fortified entrance tower and bridge which lead to a series of tiered gardens each more beautiful than the last with artfully placed sculptures and beautifully framed views of the castle and the church steeples beyond.

The lower gardens are more relaxed with mixed woodland, spring flowering bulbs and a riot of flowering azaleas and rhododendrons in late spring.

Lismore Castle, which is closed to the public belongs to the Duke of Devonshire, who also owns Chatsworth House in England, although the family spend a lot of time here. Most recently the Duke gave a talk on the art collections in both properties which was held in the medieval great hall at the castle. Tickets sold out in minutes with people coming from all over Ireland to attend and contrary to my expectations the Duke was surprisingly relaxed and witty advising would be collectors 'to buy what takes their fancy'. Even if like himself, his desk made from recycled materials came at a price ‘that would make Chippendale blush!’ A generous patron of Irish artists you can see samples of his collection as well as various temporary exhibitions at the Arts Centre, admission is included in the entrance fee to the gardens.

For more information about Lismore Castle Gardens and Arts Centre please click here.

For more Irish Gardens to visit please click here

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Colorado native has a eureka moment - sets up "Full Irish Whisky Tour of Ireland"

Brian Wess - Full Irish Whisky Heritage Tour

Here’s the answer to most guys prayers? A Full Irish Whisky Tour of Ireland, led by Brian Wess of Colorado, USA.

Now, what would an American know about Irish whisky you might ask? Well, Brian has spent the last 5 years training with whiskey experts & master distillers while also independently touring the whisky bars and distilleries of Ireland (nice work if you can get it) in an attempt to put together the best whisky tour of Ireland and I think he has succeeded. He has even managed to cajole private whiskey tours and tastings out of all the major Irish distilleries including Jamesons, Bushmills, Killbeggan and Tullamore Dew, which is no mean feat.

What this means for his customer/clients (limited to just 15 per tour) is that they do not have to queue for a ticket or follow the crowd and do the regular tour, which do not get me wrong are excellent in all of the above, but even I would like to have an audience and tasting with Jameson’s master distiller Barry Crocket, in the Master Distillers Cottage at the Old Midleton Distillery in Cork where he was actually born!

It sounds like a match made in heaven a small group of like minded folk doing what they love most, touring Ireland, drinking whisky and having the craic!.

Sounds like a good plan to me, especially seeing as Brian has managed to incorporate some of the best visitor attractions into his tour route around and about Ireland. Including the Guinness Storehouse in Dublin (of course) whisky drinkers are going to want to learn how to pull their own pint of Guinness and Waterford Crystal (it adds a little something extra drinking good Irish whisky out of a cut crystal glass) don’t you think? And there are plenty of cultural and archeological sites thrown in for good measure! the Rock of Cashel, in County Tipperary and Bunratty Castle and Folk Park, in County Clare where no doubt they will have a little taste of Poitín, which was distilled illegally all over Ireland (some say it still is, but that is definitely classified information) Poitín is made from potatoes and proofs out at a strength that will ‘either kill or cure you’. The Cliffs of Moher and the Giants Causeway are also included as well as the Ulster Folk Park and the stunning new Titanic Museum in Belfast as well as plenty of time out to enjoy the sights in Dublin.

What is especially nice about this all inclusive tour is that Brian has chosen Bed & Breakfast accommodation for one night which is a really good idea and makes for a much more intimate and authentic experience of Ireland. Irish B&B’s are known the world over for their ‘full Irish’ breakfasts that set guests up for the day with rarely any need to eat before dinner (also included) except for the last night when Brian has planned a right ole shindig in Brian Boru’s Bar in Dublin, in the Power’s award winning snug of the year, that I imagine will go on into the wee small hours of the morning, before they are all poured back onto the plane home in the morning.

A word of warning (not about the perils of drink, sorry) Brian only does these tours, twice a year and they are limited to just 15 people in addition to himself who conducts the tour. He seems like a very nice fellow, with endless patience (God Bless him) who has given serious attention to the details so that you don’t have to....

For more information about Brian Wess Full Irish Whisky Heritage Tours of Ireland or to book a place on his next tour please click here

By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

Escape to the countryside with a fall break in Ireland

Isn't Autumn just the perfect time for a short break away in the country?

Summer is long gone and our thoughts are turning inwards to cosying up in front of a crackling log fire with a nice hot whiskey having perhaps tramped through a thick carpet of leaves in an ancient beech wood.

Ireland has many beautiful forests, national parks and leafy lanes bordering ancient riverside walks that wind their way through quaint little Irish villages that thankfully have retained their rural charm. Old fashioned, meaty butchers sport big roasts, proper sausages and locally caught game if you are lucky. The smell of freshly baked bread and cakes (you can forget your diet on a weekend away in Ireland) wafts out of small bakeries turned coffee shops where you can sit and people-watch a different kind of lifestyle altogether.

Country markets have made a very welcome return and injected a new shot of life into otherwise quiet communities. With an eclectic mix of produce, ranging from pickles to pumpkins you can pick up some nice goodies for a picnic or indulge yourself in a lazy pub lunch. Gastro pubs are on the increase in Ireland, offering hearty gourmet food at reasonable prices. Traditional favorites like bacon and cabbage might be served up with mustard flavored mash potatoes, however the accompanying pint of Guinness which is of course non- negotiable…

Why mess with perfection !

So if you fancy ‘shortening the winter’ (code for a treat before the bad weather sets in? why not check out some of the self-catering breaks available from Ireland's Hidden Places, check website link below for details of special offers and Halloween events.

Or if you would prefer to waited on? Downton Abbey style why not stay a night or two in one of Hidden Ireland's great Irish Country Houses who have also have great seasonal offers available right now.


By Susan Byron author of www.irelands-hidden-gems.com

The Old Jamesons Distillery - home to Irelands favourite whiskey

I have to say I prefer the Old Jameson's Distillery as a visitor attraction to the Guinness Storehouse for the simple reason that the tour here is guided whereas in Guinness’s you are left to your own devices. Which can be very pleasant, especially above in the Gravity Bar with a view of the city and a pint in your hand, but for me I want something more?

I like to leave a place a little bit wiser and in Jameson's case (a little bit tipsy) having learned something. Properly guided tours will do that for you and at Jameson's it’s very well done, just the right length of time and information to hold your attention, finishing up with a genuinely, convivial tasting session in the Jameson's Bar.

Perhaps, when you understand how something is made you appreciate it more? It’s quite amazing how three simple ingredients, barley, water and yeast can be turned into ‘uisce beatha’ or the water of life? And interesting too, how each of the processes, whether it was the malting of the barley, the marrying of the whiskey in casks or the vatting into bottles, shaped the lives and social history of such a small part of Dublin. Surely they could never have imagined Jameson's whiskey becoming the global phenomenon it is today.

Situated in an historical part of Dublin, Smithfield market is surrounded by cobbled streets. The original building is lovely with a theatre, bar, shop and restaurant, which seems to be very popular with ‘legal people’ (which must make for some great people watching) from the nearby Four Courts.


Old Jameson Distillery, Bow St, Smithfield, Dublin 7.


Phone 01-8072355 /Open 7 days a week


Admission Adult €13 Senior & Student €9.60 Family €29 (online discounts)


Website: www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/jamesons.html


By Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/index.html

Return the Ballyvaughan road sign now - controversy over removal errupts in Ireland

Do you know it defies belief, when every man woman and child in this country is putting their best foot forward to recover from our economic woes that the government pulls the rug from under us, yet again.

This time its one of those ‘jobs worth’ moments when the NRA (National Roads Authority) have simply removed an iconic sign that has been standing at the crossroads in Ballyvaughan for over 30 years.

Possibly the most photographed road sign in Ireland, as one protester rightly put it, more ‘folk art’ then actual road signage. It is located along what Conde Nast has described as one of the Top 10 road trips in the world, out to Doolin via Blackhead.

But the NRA obviously don't want you to go there. Let me introduce you to the latest great waste of money in Ireland - the new system of 'navigating by numbers'. Apparently the powers that be are spending 60 million euros on new road signage in Ireland. So, we now have complete dead-end boreens grandly renamed as the L150001 or whatever. Why? Who cares? The answer: nobody.

Locals know where they live. For crying out loud in this day and age of smartphones, using inbuilt satellite technology and tracking, only in Ireland would we be spending a fortune on misleading the tourists. If it wasn’t such a serious waste of money it might even be funny. but this is money that would be better funding tourism initiatives like my own and countless other small businesses who are trying to encourage not discourage visitors to Ireland.

And, okay we dont want you to get lost but its a very small green island, how lost can you get?

You can Like the Return the Ballyvaughan Sign Facebook page here.

Or rent a car and try out the Motoring by Numbers for yourself here

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Terminal 2 at Dublin Airport - another huge joke?

Terminal 2 Dublin Airport, yet another huge joke at the Irish taxpayers expense? Or maybe not? the Dublin Airport Authority are insisting that the entire cost of the project, some €600 million plus, will be recouped in airport charges and passengers taxes? Dream on....

Did you know? we are one of the few countries in the world, dependent on tourism that actually imposes a €10 passenger tax on people coming into the country. Crazy isn't it? when we are fast running out of options for generating revenue and saving our economy, tourism having been one of the most enduring, is now possibly the last and what do we do?

Ireland's reputation as a tourist destination has never been an issue, it can stand proudly on its own two humble feet. We didn't need a horrendously expensive, shiny, expanse of glass & steel to make that point. We already have two perfectly good International airports at Knock and Shannon, which are practically idle? what were they thinking of?

And to add insult to injury we are now having our noses rubbed in it by being subjected to the most cringe worthy TV advert I have ever seen, you can watch it at the link below. It features a (cute enough, God Bless him) Bond type business suit strolling through the EMPTY (hello, the 400 jobs its was supposed to generate in retail sales, not going to work, if there's actually nobody using it) terminal extolling the virtues of dear old Ireland.

The great poets, playwrights, explorers and authors, true? But "sending racehorses and charity around the globe" in the same sentence? what has either got to do with the other? And since when did any proud Irishman look for credit for being charitable? He even goes on about the fact that our skin burns in 2.4 seconds what is that about? and who the hell cares.....?

We already have the world's attention, right now, for all the wrong reasons. Our economy is a joke, we could even bring Europe down with us and leadership non existent. Everyman, woman and child in this country is now responsible for some 90 billion euros of debt, which they didn't incur (so none of us are likely to jetting off around the world any day soon) Our consolation prize? this great White Elephant we are supposed to be so proud of it's a joke.

The sooner we cop ourselves on and get down to business, the better. Give it over to Michael O'Leary, scrap that tourism tax and get people actually coming into the country and then maybe just maybe we'll have something we can be genuinely proud of....

To watch that video click here www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/irish-jokes.html

Susan Byron author of http://www.irelands-hidden-gems.com/

Read more: Dublin Airport’s new gateway to the U.S. opens this week